| Basic Obedience Training Schedule By Kathy Jackson Steps to training yourself and your puppy!! This plan is very important to follow the first few months of the puppies life. Following this plan will help you avoid unacceptable behavior later. I recommend that you stick with this routine at least till the pup is 6 months old and then periodically review throughout the pups life time to reinforce and continue to avoid unacceptable behavior. |
Before picking up your puppy:
Lesson 1-Planning (30 minutes)
A. Establish Commands
☺ Have a family meeting and agree on (one word) commands that you all will use. Your dog is intelligent and will
learn many things from listening to you talk to him, your inflexion and body language. It is important to have a few
words that you both know exactly what they mean. These first basic commands should be short and very meaningful
commands that are easy to hear and understand.
Examples of the 11 basic commands I use:
Command Meaning
1. (Puppies Name) “Look at me”
2. Sit “Put your bottom on the ground”
3. OK “ free at last”
4. Come “Come to me and sit facing me”
5. Down “Lay down”
6. Crate “ go into something” usually the crate
7. Leave it “ get that out of your mouth”
8. Take “ You can have it”
8. Heal “ put your bottom at my heal and if I walk keep your shoulders at my leg”
9. Potty “ Go Potty now and here”
10. Stand “stand”
11. No “stop what ever you are doing”
B. Who will be Alpha Dog?
Determine who will be the primary caregiver/ trainer of the puppy? This will be the person who will feed and do
most of the training. It is important at first that one person teach the commands and the rest of the family will
reinforce the commands. Labs are not typically dominant dogs but if you want the basic obedience to go smoother
fallow these steps to communicate to your pup that you are Alpha and they are not.
Alpha dogs:
1. Go through a door way first
2. Eat first
3. Restrict access to bedrooms & furniture
4. Take the shortest route to where we are going so get out of the way.
5. Run the opposite direction if the dog runs away from you.
6. Takes the “kill” from the dog (stolen items or food)
7. Calls the dog to him for affection.
8. Ignores nudging and whining.
9. Ignores the dog first thing in the morning, and when you get home.
10. Restricts movement with long “down stay” commands.
C. Plan a routine for you and your new puppy.
☺Write down your weekly routine. It is important to stick to a general routine as it will help your puppy know what
is expected of him at what time.
Fill in when you will:
1. Feed puppy
2. Play/ exercise with puppy
3. Train puppy.
D. Establish boundaries.
1. Where will the puppy be allowed in the house? I highly recommend that you greatly limit his space at the
beginning and after you can trust him allow the limit to expand. It is a lot easier to clean up a mess on the linoleum
than it is on carpet. There is usually less for him to get into on the linoleum than on carpet.
2. Where do you want him to potty? It is best to teach this now than to try to limit it later. Poop is not fun to walk in
, and dead grass is not fun to reseed! So plan it carefully. Naturally dogs do not want to go where they sleep or eat.
Choose an out of the way area where you don’t walk much and where you don’t mind dead grass, or even better
where there is no grass.
The day your puppy arrives:
Lesson 2-Enacting your plan.
☺Your first training times will be very brief and teaching times. This means you do not use harsh words. It is not
fare to discipline the puppy when he does not speak your language. It is best to train right before you feed the
puppy. He will be hungry and more willing to do what he needs to do to get the treat.
A. Explore His potty area
The first thing you will want to do when you arrive home is to let the puppy explore his potty area. Put him down
and stand back let him wander around. Try to herd him gently in that same area till he goes potty. If he has eaten
recently then stay there till he poops. It may take a wile but this is the first time he has smelled these smells and what
fun it is for him. Let his first experiences with his new home and family be uninterrupted smelling bliss. When he
finishes his business take him inside with confidence that he will not have an accident in the house for at least an hour
or so.
B. Explore his new home
Put him down next to his crate and allow him the same pleasure of smelling his new interior surroundings. It would
be good for the family members to sit on the floor and allow him to sniff around them as well. When he finishes
sniffing he will be playful so enjoy.
C. Learn his name
Say his name often when you are playing with him. The behavior that you are wanting when you say his name is for
him to look at you. It is good to have the treat close to your face. I will sometimes use hot dogs and throw pieces
from the direction of my face, at the puppy so he learns to look at my face. When he responds by looking at you
then praise! Praise! Praise! A high pitched voice is a pleasant sound for a dog. So raise your tone a little. This is
important with men as their voices are naturally lower and more aggressive and authoritative sounding to the dog.
They don’t need to squeak just raise it a little to let him know your pleased with his behavior. His name is the first
command and it means “look at me”
D. Teaching the Sit command
1.The beginning of “sit”
When it is time to feed it is also time to teach him his second command. Get his food ready but do not give it to him
yet. Set in on the counter, and grab a few nuggets. Hold one close to his nose, say sit and with your free hand gently
push his bottom to the ground. (Making him sit) When his bottom is on the ground give him a nugget (treat) You
may need to hold his bottom down the first few time till he get the idea, “When my bottom is on the ground I get a
treat!!” I use sit as the cue to get pet, or being let out of their kennel. It is so much more fun to pet a dog that is
sitting still than wiggling all around, and it is more enjoyable opening a gate to a dog pen to a sitting dog than one
jumping like a maniac. In my book a dog sitting nicely while I am eating deserves treats from the table, as long as
their not sitting with their nose actually on the table.
Training till the puppy is 12 weeks old and beyond:
Lesson 3– Speaking the same language
A. The release command “OK”
You have learned how to teach your puppy the first two commands “ His name” and “Sit”. The rest of the
commands can be taught the same way. With adding one more step, and that is to release the puppy from the
command. The way to release the puppy from the command is to say the release command “OK” It is important to
use the release command, especially when you have him sit or lay down. This comes in handy when there is
someone at the door and you don’t want to be wrestling a dog away from someone who is afraid of Dogs or when
there is a repair man working on the dishwasher and you don’t want puppy in his face the whole time. It keeps you
in control. Some commands like potty, and off you do not need to use the release. The alternative to using the
release command is having to put the dog in his crate to keep him out of trouble. The little extra work of using a
release command pays off with having a well behaved dog.
B. The routine of teaching the command
1. Practice this over and over till you no longer need to make the puppy do it. Then you know that they understand
what you are saying. It is good to focus on one command at a time for a few days before introducing another
command. Your puppy’s attention span is very short but will get longer as he get older. So start out working with
him for 1 min three times a day. Work up to 15 minutes three times a day by the time pup is 12 weeks old.
1. Say the puppies name
2. Say the command only once
3. Physically make the puppy do what the command means
4. Praise
5. Release “OK”
2. Puppy’s Attention Span- Dogs in general have very short attention spans so it is very important to limit the
amount of time that you are training. Success and fun are the most important goals of training. If they are
succeeding and having fun they will want to please you. Be careful to keep your voice in the pleasant high pitched
tone and to use praise, praise, and more praise.
C. Advanced “sit”
1. When puppy understand what you are wanting when you say, “sit” and show him your flat palm it is now time to
extend the time puppy is in the sit position. Start off allowing him to stay in the position for just a few seconds and
each day add more time till he will stay in the position for 5 minutes. At the same time you are extending the time he
is in the sit position you will also be working on moving further and further away from him after you give the
command. He may try to fallow you when you move. Say the command again and push his bottom down to the
sitting position as a reminder, and move away again. After he has stayed in the sit position the desired time don’t
forget to use the release command, and praise him. What do you do if he gets up before he is released. You may
want to say, “sit” again, and help him in the sit position, the same place on the floor that he was before. This is
important because you are saying to him, “Go back where you were and stay till I let you go!!” You are reminding
him of what he should be doing. When he learns the “no” command you can use that as well, but it is important that
you catch him in the movement of getting out of position, not after he is walking.
D. The “Come” command
1. Say your pups name and “come” while you are doing this walk quickly
backwards moving away from the puppy. This will trigger the chase response and cause him to move toward you. It
should not take long for you to get your pup to come when you call. Start with short distances. Then longer and
longer. I also use slapping my legs as the hand signal. The first few time you may also need to get excited and make
extra noise like whistling, or saying, “pup, pup, pup” in a high pitched voice. Eventually you will want to just say the
command once.
2. When the puppy is 12 weeks old use the leash and gently pull pup to you when you say come. It is also at this
point you will then say “sit” when he gets to you and have him sit nicely in front of you. This is important as it has a
definite finishes to the command and puts him in a position that you can release him from. Usually there is a reason
you are calling the dog so it keeps you in control, till you let him know what that reason was. You do not need to
put him in the sit position it is up to you.
E. The “Down” command
1. After your puppy is sitting well it is time to teach the down command. I usually start by showing the puppy a treat.
He might even sit when he sees the treat. Say his name then say “down.” With your one hand put gentle pressure on
his shoulders pushing them down, till he is in a laying position. At the same time as I am applying pressure to his
shoulders with my one hand, I have placed the treat in my fist, positioning my fist a few inches from his nose and
move my fist palm down to the floor. His nose should follow the motion of the fist and aid in moving his body to a
laying position. He may even lick my fist. When he is laying down to where I do not need to apply pressure to his
back I open my fist and allow him to take the treat.
2. Soon you will not need to put pressure on his back. At this point he understands what you are saying and
motioning for him to do. It is now time to back up a few more inches from his nose. Do this little by little each day till
you can stand a few feet away from him and say the command with the hand signal of the fist and he will obey both
the command and hand signal.
3. Now it is time to extend the time puppy is in the down position. Start off allowing him to stay in the position for
just a few seconds and each day add more time till he will stay in the position for 15 minutes. At the same time you
are extending the time he is in the down position also be working on moving further and further away from him after
you give the command. He may try to fallow you when you move. Say the command again and push him down as a
reminder. After he as stayed in the down position the desired time don’t forget to use the release command, and
praise him.
4. What do you do if he gets up before he is released. You may want to say, “Down” again, and help him in the
down position, the same place on the floor that he was before. This is important because you are saying to him, “Go
back where you were and stay till I let you go!!” You are reminding him of what he should be doing. When he
learns the “no” command you can use that as well, but it is important that you catch him in the movement of getting
out of position, not after he is walking.
F. The “Crate” command
1. This command is to get your puppy to go into his crate when he is told to do so. Later on you can use this to
send him in his dog house while you clean out his pen, or to send him in any opening. I actually use “night, night” as
our command. I have small children and that is what I say to them when I put them to bed so it just seemed right to
use that when I put puppy to bed. Another command I have heard people use is “kennel up.”
2. When it is time to put puppy in the crate, call him over to where the crate is. If he won’t go then physically pick
him up and set him near the crate. Have a treat in your hand, and let him smell it. Throw it in the crate, make sure
that he can see and hear it landing in the crate. At the same time use your crate command. He should step into the
crate to investigate. When he does close the door behind him. Praise him and give him another treat while in the
crate and then let him out again. Do this often and soon when you say your “crate” command he will gladly go into
his crate. After a wile you can gradually reduce the number of times you give the treats. Then from time to time
reward him for going in his crate on command. When I get puppy a new toy I will use that as a reward for going in
his crate or if I have a bone to give him that is a good crate activity also that will reinforce the “crate command”.
G. The “leave it” & “Take” command
1. This command is useful if you need to get something out of the pups mouth fast. Like your shoe, or something
dangerous like an electrical wire. If you are training puppy to hunt this is also an important command to release the
birds. Other commands that are used are “off” or “give”
2. I start teaching this command at dinner time. Before I give pup his dinner I take a piece of kibble and put it in my
hand and show it to pup. When he goes to take it from my hand I close my hand and say “leave it” I do this a few
more times then I do the same thing as before but do not close my hand and say “take” I try to be very encouraging
and positive in my “take” tone. Do each of these command a few times each meal time and soon he will understand
what you are wanting. Then try it with other objects. I will throw a few of my kid's toys, shoes and a few of pups
toys on the floor. I bring pup in to the room and when he comes to a object that he is not allowed to have I use my
“leave it” command and then pick up one of his toys and say “take” we do this for a short period of time maybe 5
min.
3. When pup is understanding this game we will extend the time and I will slowly try to be less visible till I can trust
him enough to leave the room for a short period of time. Soon I will be able to trust him with a steak on the floor.
That is the ultimate test.
4. Use the command anytime he has something in his mouth that he shouldn't’t..
H. The “Heal” command
1. You can’t teach heal properly till pup understands sit. Sit is half of the heal. Like on page one you learn that heal
actually means put your bottom right next to my heal or sit.
2.I start off getting pup comfortable with a leash. Put the leash on him and stand still. Allow him to walk around and
feel the end of the leash.
3. When it is time to teach heal you need to put the leash on pup and hold the leash with the opposite side that pup
is on. The pros always have pup on the left side. You can do ether. If you want to compete with pup some day, I
suggest that you use your left but if you don’t choose which ever side is comfortable to you and make sure that
everyone in the family agrees as it will confuse pup if you switch sides. I like to use hot dogs cut up into disks and
then quartered. The pieces are small but they have a great smell. I put one in the hand on the side pup is on and the
leash is in the hand on the opposite side. Tell pup to sit and position him in a good heal position (his bottom right
next to your heal). Take a step forward holding the hot dog at his nose. Say “heal” Keeping the food at his nose will
keep him in position and from running in front of you. Your step should always start with the foot that is closest to
pup. That way he can see your movement easier. After you take a step or two then say “sit” Give pup the treat after
he sits.
4. Repeat this a few times and stop for this session. Repeat 2 or at the most three times a day for about a week.
Then slowly take a few more steps till you are walking normally. You will soon not need to keep the food at pups
nose. Remember to reward when pup is sitting at your heal. If when he sits on his own he is in the wrong position
slide his bottom to where it belongs then reward. It is important to reward for correct behavior now. If you allow
him to sit where he doesn’t belong he will try it later and it will take longer to teach him to “heal” correctly.
5. When you know pup knows what heal means you will slowly work up to walking fast, slow and changing
direction. Always try to look forward and not pay attention to pup. It may help to loop the leash over your back
coming down the opposite shoulder holding it with the hand that is furtherest from pup. Keep the tension tight, which
will keep pup where he belongs and put any pulling on your body not just on your hand. When pup is 12 weeks old
you can use a pinch collar. This puts you pup in control. If he dosen’t want it to give a gentle pinch then he needs to
stay put and not pull. Doing this when pup is young will help avoid problems when pup is 70+ pounds and pulling
you down the street when you go for a walk.
I. The “Potty” command
1. From the first time you put pup out to go potty put him on a leash and take him to the spot that is convenient for
him to potty. Stay there till he goes. When he is in the process of going use the potty command. When he is finished
praise him. It won’t take long before you can take him out and say the “potty” command and he will know that is
what it is time for.
J. The “Stand” command
1. The “Stand” command is taught the same way as sit and down. You physically put pup in the position of standing
and then give him a treat. This if an important command when you are at the vet, giving pup a bath, or just want him
to get up and off of something. If you ever want to show pup Stand and heal are the two important commands.
2. You want to work on this routine till you can say “stand” and pup will go from a sitting position to a standing one
on his own. You will have to physically put your arm under his stomach and lift him up, for a wile till he understand
what you are wanting. After a wile you will be able to stand in front of pup and tap his belly with the toe of your
foot and this will help encourage him to stand.
K. The “No” command
1. The “no” command is the only really negative command and should be used very carefully. It basically means
STOP!! With each command you can use the “no” command with it. You must be careful not to be too harsh on
pup.
2. Definitely nothing harsh before 12 weeks. They are just learning the commands and can’t be expected to
understand what you are wanting. Remind yourself that you are each speaking a different language. Till pup gives
you the clues that he is understanding what you are saying you can’t expect him to do what you want. Pup will be
able to react to your voice inflection, and will cower when you are upset with him. That does not mean that he
understands why you are upset, he just knows that you are upset.
3.I mainly use no when I catch pup going potty in the house, and I mean catch him going potty!!” Say NO, firmly,
maybe even a few times. Then quickly take him out. If I find a puddle or poop pile. I just clean it up and give myself
a slap on the wrist for not paying better attention to pup. You must watch him all the time till you can trust him. That
won’t get close to happening till he is about 6 months old. The more times you can catch him in the act the
better.
Polishing the training:
Lesson 3-introducing Distractions
A. Practice makes perfect
1. Once you know that the pup understand each command and does what you are asking of him. It is time to
practice, practice, practice.
2. Practice every where you can think of. Take him everywhere you can take him and practice his commands. Start
with places that have little activity and work up to busy parks and pet stores.
3. It is now that you can feel confident that when you tell pup to do something he will do it. This is a great feeling.
You can trust pup and know that he will be a wonderful friend. No surprises!! He is reliable.
Go back to the basics:
Lesson 4-Oops
A. What do you do when…
1. Any time you are having a behavior problem with pup after he has a grasp on basic obedience, you go back to
the basics. It is amazing what making pup sit will do for other problems. It won’t solve them all but it will reinforce
that you are alpha dog and what you say goes!!
2. Going back to the basics means going back to lesson 2 and reteaching pup all the basic commands, as if he
didn’t know what they meant. In doing this and making him listen the first time will help you deal with many problem
behaviors.
Lesson 1-Planning (30 minutes)
A. Establish Commands
☺ Have a family meeting and agree on (one word) commands that you all will use. Your dog is intelligent and will
learn many things from listening to you talk to him, your inflexion and body language. It is important to have a few
words that you both know exactly what they mean. These first basic commands should be short and very meaningful
commands that are easy to hear and understand.
Examples of the 11 basic commands I use:
Command Meaning
1. (Puppies Name) “Look at me”
2. Sit “Put your bottom on the ground”
3. OK “ free at last”
4. Come “Come to me and sit facing me”
5. Down “Lay down”
6. Crate “ go into something” usually the crate
7. Leave it “ get that out of your mouth”
8. Take “ You can have it”
8. Heal “ put your bottom at my heal and if I walk keep your shoulders at my leg”
9. Potty “ Go Potty now and here”
10. Stand “stand”
11. No “stop what ever you are doing”
B. Who will be Alpha Dog?
Determine who will be the primary caregiver/ trainer of the puppy? This will be the person who will feed and do
most of the training. It is important at first that one person teach the commands and the rest of the family will
reinforce the commands. Labs are not typically dominant dogs but if you want the basic obedience to go smoother
fallow these steps to communicate to your pup that you are Alpha and they are not.
Alpha dogs:
1. Go through a door way first
2. Eat first
3. Restrict access to bedrooms & furniture
4. Take the shortest route to where we are going so get out of the way.
5. Run the opposite direction if the dog runs away from you.
6. Takes the “kill” from the dog (stolen items or food)
7. Calls the dog to him for affection.
8. Ignores nudging and whining.
9. Ignores the dog first thing in the morning, and when you get home.
10. Restricts movement with long “down stay” commands.
C. Plan a routine for you and your new puppy.
☺Write down your weekly routine. It is important to stick to a general routine as it will help your puppy know what
is expected of him at what time.
Fill in when you will:
1. Feed puppy
2. Play/ exercise with puppy
3. Train puppy.
D. Establish boundaries.
1. Where will the puppy be allowed in the house? I highly recommend that you greatly limit his space at the
beginning and after you can trust him allow the limit to expand. It is a lot easier to clean up a mess on the linoleum
than it is on carpet. There is usually less for him to get into on the linoleum than on carpet.
2. Where do you want him to potty? It is best to teach this now than to try to limit it later. Poop is not fun to walk in
, and dead grass is not fun to reseed! So plan it carefully. Naturally dogs do not want to go where they sleep or eat.
Choose an out of the way area where you don’t walk much and where you don’t mind dead grass, or even better
where there is no grass.
The day your puppy arrives:
Lesson 2-Enacting your plan.
☺Your first training times will be very brief and teaching times. This means you do not use harsh words. It is not
fare to discipline the puppy when he does not speak your language. It is best to train right before you feed the
puppy. He will be hungry and more willing to do what he needs to do to get the treat.
A. Explore His potty area
The first thing you will want to do when you arrive home is to let the puppy explore his potty area. Put him down
and stand back let him wander around. Try to herd him gently in that same area till he goes potty. If he has eaten
recently then stay there till he poops. It may take a wile but this is the first time he has smelled these smells and what
fun it is for him. Let his first experiences with his new home and family be uninterrupted smelling bliss. When he
finishes his business take him inside with confidence that he will not have an accident in the house for at least an hour
or so.
B. Explore his new home
Put him down next to his crate and allow him the same pleasure of smelling his new interior surroundings. It would
be good for the family members to sit on the floor and allow him to sniff around them as well. When he finishes
sniffing he will be playful so enjoy.
C. Learn his name
Say his name often when you are playing with him. The behavior that you are wanting when you say his name is for
him to look at you. It is good to have the treat close to your face. I will sometimes use hot dogs and throw pieces
from the direction of my face, at the puppy so he learns to look at my face. When he responds by looking at you
then praise! Praise! Praise! A high pitched voice is a pleasant sound for a dog. So raise your tone a little. This is
important with men as their voices are naturally lower and more aggressive and authoritative sounding to the dog.
They don’t need to squeak just raise it a little to let him know your pleased with his behavior. His name is the first
command and it means “look at me”
D. Teaching the Sit command
1.The beginning of “sit”
When it is time to feed it is also time to teach him his second command. Get his food ready but do not give it to him
yet. Set in on the counter, and grab a few nuggets. Hold one close to his nose, say sit and with your free hand gently
push his bottom to the ground. (Making him sit) When his bottom is on the ground give him a nugget (treat) You
may need to hold his bottom down the first few time till he get the idea, “When my bottom is on the ground I get a
treat!!” I use sit as the cue to get pet, or being let out of their kennel. It is so much more fun to pet a dog that is
sitting still than wiggling all around, and it is more enjoyable opening a gate to a dog pen to a sitting dog than one
jumping like a maniac. In my book a dog sitting nicely while I am eating deserves treats from the table, as long as
their not sitting with their nose actually on the table.
Training till the puppy is 12 weeks old and beyond:
Lesson 3– Speaking the same language
A. The release command “OK”
You have learned how to teach your puppy the first two commands “ His name” and “Sit”. The rest of the
commands can be taught the same way. With adding one more step, and that is to release the puppy from the
command. The way to release the puppy from the command is to say the release command “OK” It is important to
use the release command, especially when you have him sit or lay down. This comes in handy when there is
someone at the door and you don’t want to be wrestling a dog away from someone who is afraid of Dogs or when
there is a repair man working on the dishwasher and you don’t want puppy in his face the whole time. It keeps you
in control. Some commands like potty, and off you do not need to use the release. The alternative to using the
release command is having to put the dog in his crate to keep him out of trouble. The little extra work of using a
release command pays off with having a well behaved dog.
B. The routine of teaching the command
1. Practice this over and over till you no longer need to make the puppy do it. Then you know that they understand
what you are saying. It is good to focus on one command at a time for a few days before introducing another
command. Your puppy’s attention span is very short but will get longer as he get older. So start out working with
him for 1 min three times a day. Work up to 15 minutes three times a day by the time pup is 12 weeks old.
1. Say the puppies name
2. Say the command only once
3. Physically make the puppy do what the command means
4. Praise
5. Release “OK”
2. Puppy’s Attention Span- Dogs in general have very short attention spans so it is very important to limit the
amount of time that you are training. Success and fun are the most important goals of training. If they are
succeeding and having fun they will want to please you. Be careful to keep your voice in the pleasant high pitched
tone and to use praise, praise, and more praise.
C. Advanced “sit”
1. When puppy understand what you are wanting when you say, “sit” and show him your flat palm it is now time to
extend the time puppy is in the sit position. Start off allowing him to stay in the position for just a few seconds and
each day add more time till he will stay in the position for 5 minutes. At the same time you are extending the time he
is in the sit position you will also be working on moving further and further away from him after you give the
command. He may try to fallow you when you move. Say the command again and push his bottom down to the
sitting position as a reminder, and move away again. After he has stayed in the sit position the desired time don’t
forget to use the release command, and praise him. What do you do if he gets up before he is released. You may
want to say, “sit” again, and help him in the sit position, the same place on the floor that he was before. This is
important because you are saying to him, “Go back where you were and stay till I let you go!!” You are reminding
him of what he should be doing. When he learns the “no” command you can use that as well, but it is important that
you catch him in the movement of getting out of position, not after he is walking.
D. The “Come” command
1. Say your pups name and “come” while you are doing this walk quickly
backwards moving away from the puppy. This will trigger the chase response and cause him to move toward you. It
should not take long for you to get your pup to come when you call. Start with short distances. Then longer and
longer. I also use slapping my legs as the hand signal. The first few time you may also need to get excited and make
extra noise like whistling, or saying, “pup, pup, pup” in a high pitched voice. Eventually you will want to just say the
command once.
2. When the puppy is 12 weeks old use the leash and gently pull pup to you when you say come. It is also at this
point you will then say “sit” when he gets to you and have him sit nicely in front of you. This is important as it has a
definite finishes to the command and puts him in a position that you can release him from. Usually there is a reason
you are calling the dog so it keeps you in control, till you let him know what that reason was. You do not need to
put him in the sit position it is up to you.
E. The “Down” command
1. After your puppy is sitting well it is time to teach the down command. I usually start by showing the puppy a treat.
He might even sit when he sees the treat. Say his name then say “down.” With your one hand put gentle pressure on
his shoulders pushing them down, till he is in a laying position. At the same time as I am applying pressure to his
shoulders with my one hand, I have placed the treat in my fist, positioning my fist a few inches from his nose and
move my fist palm down to the floor. His nose should follow the motion of the fist and aid in moving his body to a
laying position. He may even lick my fist. When he is laying down to where I do not need to apply pressure to his
back I open my fist and allow him to take the treat.
2. Soon you will not need to put pressure on his back. At this point he understands what you are saying and
motioning for him to do. It is now time to back up a few more inches from his nose. Do this little by little each day till
you can stand a few feet away from him and say the command with the hand signal of the fist and he will obey both
the command and hand signal.
3. Now it is time to extend the time puppy is in the down position. Start off allowing him to stay in the position for
just a few seconds and each day add more time till he will stay in the position for 15 minutes. At the same time you
are extending the time he is in the down position also be working on moving further and further away from him after
you give the command. He may try to fallow you when you move. Say the command again and push him down as a
reminder. After he as stayed in the down position the desired time don’t forget to use the release command, and
praise him.
4. What do you do if he gets up before he is released. You may want to say, “Down” again, and help him in the
down position, the same place on the floor that he was before. This is important because you are saying to him, “Go
back where you were and stay till I let you go!!” You are reminding him of what he should be doing. When he
learns the “no” command you can use that as well, but it is important that you catch him in the movement of getting
out of position, not after he is walking.
F. The “Crate” command
1. This command is to get your puppy to go into his crate when he is told to do so. Later on you can use this to
send him in his dog house while you clean out his pen, or to send him in any opening. I actually use “night, night” as
our command. I have small children and that is what I say to them when I put them to bed so it just seemed right to
use that when I put puppy to bed. Another command I have heard people use is “kennel up.”
2. When it is time to put puppy in the crate, call him over to where the crate is. If he won’t go then physically pick
him up and set him near the crate. Have a treat in your hand, and let him smell it. Throw it in the crate, make sure
that he can see and hear it landing in the crate. At the same time use your crate command. He should step into the
crate to investigate. When he does close the door behind him. Praise him and give him another treat while in the
crate and then let him out again. Do this often and soon when you say your “crate” command he will gladly go into
his crate. After a wile you can gradually reduce the number of times you give the treats. Then from time to time
reward him for going in his crate on command. When I get puppy a new toy I will use that as a reward for going in
his crate or if I have a bone to give him that is a good crate activity also that will reinforce the “crate command”.
G. The “leave it” & “Take” command
1. This command is useful if you need to get something out of the pups mouth fast. Like your shoe, or something
dangerous like an electrical wire. If you are training puppy to hunt this is also an important command to release the
birds. Other commands that are used are “off” or “give”
2. I start teaching this command at dinner time. Before I give pup his dinner I take a piece of kibble and put it in my
hand and show it to pup. When he goes to take it from my hand I close my hand and say “leave it” I do this a few
more times then I do the same thing as before but do not close my hand and say “take” I try to be very encouraging
and positive in my “take” tone. Do each of these command a few times each meal time and soon he will understand
what you are wanting. Then try it with other objects. I will throw a few of my kid's toys, shoes and a few of pups
toys on the floor. I bring pup in to the room and when he comes to a object that he is not allowed to have I use my
“leave it” command and then pick up one of his toys and say “take” we do this for a short period of time maybe 5
min.
3. When pup is understanding this game we will extend the time and I will slowly try to be less visible till I can trust
him enough to leave the room for a short period of time. Soon I will be able to trust him with a steak on the floor.
That is the ultimate test.
4. Use the command anytime he has something in his mouth that he shouldn't’t..
H. The “Heal” command
1. You can’t teach heal properly till pup understands sit. Sit is half of the heal. Like on page one you learn that heal
actually means put your bottom right next to my heal or sit.
2.I start off getting pup comfortable with a leash. Put the leash on him and stand still. Allow him to walk around and
feel the end of the leash.
3. When it is time to teach heal you need to put the leash on pup and hold the leash with the opposite side that pup
is on. The pros always have pup on the left side. You can do ether. If you want to compete with pup some day, I
suggest that you use your left but if you don’t choose which ever side is comfortable to you and make sure that
everyone in the family agrees as it will confuse pup if you switch sides. I like to use hot dogs cut up into disks and
then quartered. The pieces are small but they have a great smell. I put one in the hand on the side pup is on and the
leash is in the hand on the opposite side. Tell pup to sit and position him in a good heal position (his bottom right
next to your heal). Take a step forward holding the hot dog at his nose. Say “heal” Keeping the food at his nose will
keep him in position and from running in front of you. Your step should always start with the foot that is closest to
pup. That way he can see your movement easier. After you take a step or two then say “sit” Give pup the treat after
he sits.
4. Repeat this a few times and stop for this session. Repeat 2 or at the most three times a day for about a week.
Then slowly take a few more steps till you are walking normally. You will soon not need to keep the food at pups
nose. Remember to reward when pup is sitting at your heal. If when he sits on his own he is in the wrong position
slide his bottom to where it belongs then reward. It is important to reward for correct behavior now. If you allow
him to sit where he doesn’t belong he will try it later and it will take longer to teach him to “heal” correctly.
5. When you know pup knows what heal means you will slowly work up to walking fast, slow and changing
direction. Always try to look forward and not pay attention to pup. It may help to loop the leash over your back
coming down the opposite shoulder holding it with the hand that is furtherest from pup. Keep the tension tight, which
will keep pup where he belongs and put any pulling on your body not just on your hand. When pup is 12 weeks old
you can use a pinch collar. This puts you pup in control. If he dosen’t want it to give a gentle pinch then he needs to
stay put and not pull. Doing this when pup is young will help avoid problems when pup is 70+ pounds and pulling
you down the street when you go for a walk.
I. The “Potty” command
1. From the first time you put pup out to go potty put him on a leash and take him to the spot that is convenient for
him to potty. Stay there till he goes. When he is in the process of going use the potty command. When he is finished
praise him. It won’t take long before you can take him out and say the “potty” command and he will know that is
what it is time for.
J. The “Stand” command
1. The “Stand” command is taught the same way as sit and down. You physically put pup in the position of standing
and then give him a treat. This if an important command when you are at the vet, giving pup a bath, or just want him
to get up and off of something. If you ever want to show pup Stand and heal are the two important commands.
2. You want to work on this routine till you can say “stand” and pup will go from a sitting position to a standing one
on his own. You will have to physically put your arm under his stomach and lift him up, for a wile till he understand
what you are wanting. After a wile you will be able to stand in front of pup and tap his belly with the toe of your
foot and this will help encourage him to stand.
K. The “No” command
1. The “no” command is the only really negative command and should be used very carefully. It basically means
STOP!! With each command you can use the “no” command with it. You must be careful not to be too harsh on
pup.
2. Definitely nothing harsh before 12 weeks. They are just learning the commands and can’t be expected to
understand what you are wanting. Remind yourself that you are each speaking a different language. Till pup gives
you the clues that he is understanding what you are saying you can’t expect him to do what you want. Pup will be
able to react to your voice inflection, and will cower when you are upset with him. That does not mean that he
understands why you are upset, he just knows that you are upset.
3.I mainly use no when I catch pup going potty in the house, and I mean catch him going potty!!” Say NO, firmly,
maybe even a few times. Then quickly take him out. If I find a puddle or poop pile. I just clean it up and give myself
a slap on the wrist for not paying better attention to pup. You must watch him all the time till you can trust him. That
won’t get close to happening till he is about 6 months old. The more times you can catch him in the act the
better.
Polishing the training:
Lesson 3-introducing Distractions
A. Practice makes perfect
1. Once you know that the pup understand each command and does what you are asking of him. It is time to
practice, practice, practice.
2. Practice every where you can think of. Take him everywhere you can take him and practice his commands. Start
with places that have little activity and work up to busy parks and pet stores.
3. It is now that you can feel confident that when you tell pup to do something he will do it. This is a great feeling.
You can trust pup and know that he will be a wonderful friend. No surprises!! He is reliable.
Go back to the basics:
Lesson 4-Oops
A. What do you do when…
1. Any time you are having a behavior problem with pup after he has a grasp on basic obedience, you go back to
the basics. It is amazing what making pup sit will do for other problems. It won’t solve them all but it will reinforce
that you are alpha dog and what you say goes!!
2. Going back to the basics means going back to lesson 2 and reteaching pup all the basic commands, as if he
didn’t know what they meant. In doing this and making him listen the first time will help you deal with many problem
behaviors.
Puppies: Basic Obedience
A puppy can learn a great deal, even as early as 7 weeks of age, if learning is fun and
presented in the form of gentle play. Motivational methods work best for the tender
young puppy soul. Reward desired behaviors by offering toys, food and praise so the
puppy wants to obey. Whenever possible, try to arrange the situation so he can't make
a mistake. Never use physical punishment on a young puppy as you may damage him
both mentally and physically.
Most puppies, like young children, enjoy learning, but have short attention spans. The
following exercises can be done several times a day. They take just a few minutes, but
will make a tremendous difference in your puppy's attitude. To establish a positive
rapport with your puppy and prevent many future problems, start training a few days
after your puppy settles in.
We can only offer very brief explanations here, and trainers have many variations on
these concepts. If you run into problems, consult a professional trainer. A puppy can
start more formal obedience training at about four to six months of age.
Sit:
Move a toy or piece of food (the motivator) from a position in front of the puppy to a
point up over his head and say "Sit". The pup will probably raise his head to follow the
motivator and in the process, lower his rear end to the floor. You may gently help the
pup at first by tucking his bottom under with your free hand. When he sits, praise the
pup exuberantly and give him the toy or treat as a reward.
Down:
Show the puppy a tantalizing piece of food or a toy to get his attention. Say "Down"
and slowly lower the toy to the floor. If needed, help him down with very slight
pressure on his shoulders. (Don't put pressure on his back, or you can hurt him.) Give
him the toy when he lies down, even if just for a second. Reward profusely. Later you
can extend the length of time he must stay down before you give him the toy.
Stand:
Starting with the puppy in the Down position, say "Stand" and raise a treat or toy
forward and upward in front of the puppy. Gently help position him with your other
hand if needed. Have him hold the stand position for a second or two, then release,
reward and praise him exuberantly.
Wait:
Have the puppy sit. Say "Wait" and back away from the puppy, one or two steps.
Praise the puppy for staying. After just a second or two, reward, praise, and release.
Always reward the puppy when he's still waiting, not after he gets up, so he associates
the reward with waiting and not the release. If the puppy gets up too soon, simply
repeat the exercise. Gradually increase the time he waits.
Strut (Heel):
Get your puppy's attention with a delectable treat at about his head level on your
left-hand side. Say "Strut" or "Heel" or "Let's go" (choose one and be consistent) and
walk briskly forward. Let the puppy munch a bit as you walk. Go only a few steps at
first, then extend the range. Release the pup and praise him. As the puppy progresses,
lift the food a little higher, but do not reward the pup for jumping.
Come:
This game takes two people, and is a great way to get your puppy excited about
coming to you. Person 1 holds the puppy back while Person 2 tantalizes him by
waving a treat or toy in his face, just out of reach. Then Person 2 runs away, calling
"Rover, Come!" in an excited tone of voice. Person 1 releases the pup, who comes
running wildly after Person 2! Person 2 rewards the dog with lots of praise and gives
Rover the toy or treat she was waving.
When teaching a young pup to come to you, call him several times throughout the day
around the house and yard, even if you don't want him to come for any particular
reason. Each time he comes, praise and reward him. (You can keep some of his
regular dry dog kibble in your pocket and give him one whenever he comes if you
don't want to overload him with fancy fattening treats.) The puppy will think coming to
you is terrific!
If you don't have an assistant handy, try this game. Have the puppy on a loose long line
or flexi-lead. Show him a treat or toy. Call his name and then say "Come!" in an
energized tone of voice. If he comes to you, reward with a toy or a bit of food and
excited praise. If he doesn't come right away, tug gently on the leash and move
backwards, away from the puppy. If you run towards him, he may think you are
playing a chase game and run away from you!
As your puppy gets a little older and more independent, the long line or flexi-lead will
guarantee that he will always come when you call. This is especially useful outside or at
parks where he may find many new and interesting distractions. Always reward him for
coming. Never scold or punish the dog when he comes to you. (If you must punish the
dog for some bad behavior, just go get him.) Don't use the "Come" command
outdoors unless your puppy is on a leash, so you can be sure he will obey. Soon he
will realize that he must come every time you call and that coming is fun!
Conclusion:
Training your puppy is enjoyable and worthwhile. You will develop a rewarding bond
with your puppy and an activity you can do together even after the dog is grown. An
untrained dog can be a pest, a problem and a even a danger. A well-trained dog is a
good friend and an asset to his family and community.
Puppies: Teaching Good Manners
"A dog should be a pleasure to all and a nuisance to none," says well-known dog
trainer Barbara Woodhouse. Teach your puppy the following commands in addition to
basic obedience, and he will be much easier to live with. Practice these commands a
few times a day in very short play-training sessions.
Give:
To avoid unwanted aggression and guarding behavior later in life, train your dog to give
you his prized possessions and even his food. The best way is to offer an exchange.
Say "Give" and offer your dog a treat for his toy. The food offering will inspire most
dogs to release the toy without
struggle. Praise him heartily. Then give the toy back to him. Make it a fun game that he
wins most of the time.
Get it / Leave it (Don't Touch):
Dogs who know the command "Leave it" will let things alone when asked. To make
learning fun, play a game with your pup. Start the exercise with the dog sitting in front
of you on a leash. With a handful of treats, offer him one at a time, saying, "Get it!"
After two or three "Get its", offer him a treat, as usual, but this time say, "Leave it!" Of
course he is going to go for it anyway because he doesn't know any better. When the
puppy tries to grab the treat, give him a tiny bop on the nose with the same hand that
offered him the treat, and repeat, "Leave it". As soon as the dog leaves the treat alone,
praise him, saying, "Good Leave it!", then say, "OK. Get it!" and give it to him. Repeat
the sequence four or five times in a row, saying "Get it" much more often than you say
"Leave it." The puppy will think this is great fun and will probably catch on very
quickly, learning to leave the treat alone when you say "Leave it".
Don't Pull:
Your cute little puppy may grow up to be a hundred pound powerhouse dragging you
down the street if you don't train him not to pull on the leash. To prevent physical
damage to the dog, avoid excessive jerking on a puppy's neck until he is at least four
months old. Meanwhile, use a retractable leash, such as a Flexi-Leash(TM), so the
pup can have some freedom, but meets resistance when he pulls. If he lunges, simply
turn around and walk the other way.
Many trainers are now using Halti(TM) Head Collars to train puppies not to pull. The
Halti(TM) fits around the dog's head and attaches to the leash. With the Halti(TM), the
owner diverts the dog's head gently to the side if the dog tries to pull forward. Dogs
don't like to lunge in a direction they cannot see. The experience is unpleasant for the
dog, but humane, involving no pain.
Off:
No matter what they say, most people do not like it when a dog jumps all over them.
Jumping up can even be dangerous when a dog jumps on a small child. The simplest
and safest way to teach a puppy not to jump up is to back up when you see the pup
coming and say "Off!" Reward and praise the puppy once all its feet are on the ground.
You can also tell the dog to "Sit" so he learns something positive to do when greeting
strangers. When the puppy is older, more severe measures can be used if necessary.
One warning: If you allow your dog to jump all over you, he may have trouble
understanding why you don't allow him to jump all over everyone else. Try to be
consistent!
In Your Kennel:
A dog's kennel should be his safe place, his den, his refuge. Your dog can learn to go
willingly into his kennel on command. Tantalize your puppy with a treat or toy, then put
it into the kennel and say "Kennel" or "Go to bed", or "In your Kennel" (choose one
and be consistent). The dog will probably go inside. At first, don't close the door. Just
praise the dog for going in. When he's used to going in, start closing the door, at first
just for a few seconds. Give the puppy a little treat through the bars when he's inside
with the door closed. Extend the time he spends inside the kennel gradually. Never let
him out when he's crying as that only rewards crying. When you let
the puppy out, don't make a big deal out of it. You don't want coming out to seem
better than going in!
Speak / Quiet:
When a person yells at his dog for barking, the dog thinks the human is barking too,
joining the fun. "Quiet" is a difficult concept for dogs. The most successful strategy
we've found is to train the dog to bark on command before training the dog what
"Quiet" means.
Show the dog a treat, make a hand signal and say "Speak". You may have to bark a
bit at your dog before he gets the idea, but eventually he will probably give you a bark
or two. Praise and reward immediately and with great fervor. Try again until your
puppy understands this entertaining game.
Once the dog knows how to bark on comm
and, get him barking and then suddenly say "Quiet" and place your fingers to your lips.
This strange action will probably stun your dog into silence. Reward and praise
excitedly! Repeat several times a day for a few weeks until your dog knows it
dependably. Later, when you yell "Quiet", the dog will know what you are talking
about.
Summary:
A dog with good manners is a pleasure to live with and to be around. Training your
dog to behave in a socially acceptable way is fun. Your family and guests will thank
you, and you will be proud of your pet. Wouldn't it be nice to have a dog who stops
barking when you ask him to, who doesn't jump up on people, who doesn't pull you
down the street and who will give you even his most prized possessions without a
grumble? It's all up to you...
A puppy can learn a great deal, even as early as 7 weeks of age, if learning is fun and
presented in the form of gentle play. Motivational methods work best for the tender
young puppy soul. Reward desired behaviors by offering toys, food and praise so the
puppy wants to obey. Whenever possible, try to arrange the situation so he can't make
a mistake. Never use physical punishment on a young puppy as you may damage him
both mentally and physically.
Most puppies, like young children, enjoy learning, but have short attention spans. The
following exercises can be done several times a day. They take just a few minutes, but
will make a tremendous difference in your puppy's attitude. To establish a positive
rapport with your puppy and prevent many future problems, start training a few days
after your puppy settles in.
We can only offer very brief explanations here, and trainers have many variations on
these concepts. If you run into problems, consult a professional trainer. A puppy can
start more formal obedience training at about four to six months of age.
Sit:
Move a toy or piece of food (the motivator) from a position in front of the puppy to a
point up over his head and say "Sit". The pup will probably raise his head to follow the
motivator and in the process, lower his rear end to the floor. You may gently help the
pup at first by tucking his bottom under with your free hand. When he sits, praise the
pup exuberantly and give him the toy or treat as a reward.
Down:
Show the puppy a tantalizing piece of food or a toy to get his attention. Say "Down"
and slowly lower the toy to the floor. If needed, help him down with very slight
pressure on his shoulders. (Don't put pressure on his back, or you can hurt him.) Give
him the toy when he lies down, even if just for a second. Reward profusely. Later you
can extend the length of time he must stay down before you give him the toy.
Stand:
Starting with the puppy in the Down position, say "Stand" and raise a treat or toy
forward and upward in front of the puppy. Gently help position him with your other
hand if needed. Have him hold the stand position for a second or two, then release,
reward and praise him exuberantly.
Wait:
Have the puppy sit. Say "Wait" and back away from the puppy, one or two steps.
Praise the puppy for staying. After just a second or two, reward, praise, and release.
Always reward the puppy when he's still waiting, not after he gets up, so he associates
the reward with waiting and not the release. If the puppy gets up too soon, simply
repeat the exercise. Gradually increase the time he waits.
Strut (Heel):
Get your puppy's attention with a delectable treat at about his head level on your
left-hand side. Say "Strut" or "Heel" or "Let's go" (choose one and be consistent) and
walk briskly forward. Let the puppy munch a bit as you walk. Go only a few steps at
first, then extend the range. Release the pup and praise him. As the puppy progresses,
lift the food a little higher, but do not reward the pup for jumping.
Come:
This game takes two people, and is a great way to get your puppy excited about
coming to you. Person 1 holds the puppy back while Person 2 tantalizes him by
waving a treat or toy in his face, just out of reach. Then Person 2 runs away, calling
"Rover, Come!" in an excited tone of voice. Person 1 releases the pup, who comes
running wildly after Person 2! Person 2 rewards the dog with lots of praise and gives
Rover the toy or treat she was waving.
When teaching a young pup to come to you, call him several times throughout the day
around the house and yard, even if you don't want him to come for any particular
reason. Each time he comes, praise and reward him. (You can keep some of his
regular dry dog kibble in your pocket and give him one whenever he comes if you
don't want to overload him with fancy fattening treats.) The puppy will think coming to
you is terrific!
If you don't have an assistant handy, try this game. Have the puppy on a loose long line
or flexi-lead. Show him a treat or toy. Call his name and then say "Come!" in an
energized tone of voice. If he comes to you, reward with a toy or a bit of food and
excited praise. If he doesn't come right away, tug gently on the leash and move
backwards, away from the puppy. If you run towards him, he may think you are
playing a chase game and run away from you!
As your puppy gets a little older and more independent, the long line or flexi-lead will
guarantee that he will always come when you call. This is especially useful outside or at
parks where he may find many new and interesting distractions. Always reward him for
coming. Never scold or punish the dog when he comes to you. (If you must punish the
dog for some bad behavior, just go get him.) Don't use the "Come" command
outdoors unless your puppy is on a leash, so you can be sure he will obey. Soon he
will realize that he must come every time you call and that coming is fun!
Conclusion:
Training your puppy is enjoyable and worthwhile. You will develop a rewarding bond
with your puppy and an activity you can do together even after the dog is grown. An
untrained dog can be a pest, a problem and a even a danger. A well-trained dog is a
good friend and an asset to his family and community.
Puppies: Teaching Good Manners
"A dog should be a pleasure to all and a nuisance to none," says well-known dog
trainer Barbara Woodhouse. Teach your puppy the following commands in addition to
basic obedience, and he will be much easier to live with. Practice these commands a
few times a day in very short play-training sessions.
Give:
To avoid unwanted aggression and guarding behavior later in life, train your dog to give
you his prized possessions and even his food. The best way is to offer an exchange.
Say "Give" and offer your dog a treat for his toy. The food offering will inspire most
dogs to release the toy without
struggle. Praise him heartily. Then give the toy back to him. Make it a fun game that he
wins most of the time.
Get it / Leave it (Don't Touch):
Dogs who know the command "Leave it" will let things alone when asked. To make
learning fun, play a game with your pup. Start the exercise with the dog sitting in front
of you on a leash. With a handful of treats, offer him one at a time, saying, "Get it!"
After two or three "Get its", offer him a treat, as usual, but this time say, "Leave it!" Of
course he is going to go for it anyway because he doesn't know any better. When the
puppy tries to grab the treat, give him a tiny bop on the nose with the same hand that
offered him the treat, and repeat, "Leave it". As soon as the dog leaves the treat alone,
praise him, saying, "Good Leave it!", then say, "OK. Get it!" and give it to him. Repeat
the sequence four or five times in a row, saying "Get it" much more often than you say
"Leave it." The puppy will think this is great fun and will probably catch on very
quickly, learning to leave the treat alone when you say "Leave it".
Don't Pull:
Your cute little puppy may grow up to be a hundred pound powerhouse dragging you
down the street if you don't train him not to pull on the leash. To prevent physical
damage to the dog, avoid excessive jerking on a puppy's neck until he is at least four
months old. Meanwhile, use a retractable leash, such as a Flexi-Leash(TM), so the
pup can have some freedom, but meets resistance when he pulls. If he lunges, simply
turn around and walk the other way.
Many trainers are now using Halti(TM) Head Collars to train puppies not to pull. The
Halti(TM) fits around the dog's head and attaches to the leash. With the Halti(TM), the
owner diverts the dog's head gently to the side if the dog tries to pull forward. Dogs
don't like to lunge in a direction they cannot see. The experience is unpleasant for the
dog, but humane, involving no pain.
Off:
No matter what they say, most people do not like it when a dog jumps all over them.
Jumping up can even be dangerous when a dog jumps on a small child. The simplest
and safest way to teach a puppy not to jump up is to back up when you see the pup
coming and say "Off!" Reward and praise the puppy once all its feet are on the ground.
You can also tell the dog to "Sit" so he learns something positive to do when greeting
strangers. When the puppy is older, more severe measures can be used if necessary.
One warning: If you allow your dog to jump all over you, he may have trouble
understanding why you don't allow him to jump all over everyone else. Try to be
consistent!
In Your Kennel:
A dog's kennel should be his safe place, his den, his refuge. Your dog can learn to go
willingly into his kennel on command. Tantalize your puppy with a treat or toy, then put
it into the kennel and say "Kennel" or "Go to bed", or "In your Kennel" (choose one
and be consistent). The dog will probably go inside. At first, don't close the door. Just
praise the dog for going in. When he's used to going in, start closing the door, at first
just for a few seconds. Give the puppy a little treat through the bars when he's inside
with the door closed. Extend the time he spends inside the kennel gradually. Never let
him out when he's crying as that only rewards crying. When you let
the puppy out, don't make a big deal out of it. You don't want coming out to seem
better than going in!
Speak / Quiet:
When a person yells at his dog for barking, the dog thinks the human is barking too,
joining the fun. "Quiet" is a difficult concept for dogs. The most successful strategy
we've found is to train the dog to bark on command before training the dog what
"Quiet" means.
Show the dog a treat, make a hand signal and say "Speak". You may have to bark a
bit at your dog before he gets the idea, but eventually he will probably give you a bark
or two. Praise and reward immediately and with great fervor. Try again until your
puppy understands this entertaining game.
Once the dog knows how to bark on comm
and, get him barking and then suddenly say "Quiet" and place your fingers to your lips.
This strange action will probably stun your dog into silence. Reward and praise
excitedly! Repeat several times a day for a few weeks until your dog knows it
dependably. Later, when you yell "Quiet", the dog will know what you are talking
about.
Summary:
A dog with good manners is a pleasure to live with and to be around. Training your
dog to behave in a socially acceptable way is fun. Your family and guests will thank
you, and you will be proud of your pet. Wouldn't it be nice to have a dog who stops
barking when you ask him to, who doesn't jump up on people, who doesn't pull you
down the street and who will give you even his most prized possessions without a
grumble? It's all up to you...
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